Indonesia

How To Explore Flores, Indonesia (Komodo & Beyond)

A practical travel guide to the fascinating and authentic Indonesian island

In the eastern part of Indonesia is the dreamy island of Flores, part of the Lesser Sunda Islands — an off-path part of Indonesia that beckons to be explored.

Although Flores is less visited than certain other Indonesian islands, it has still received considerable attention over the past decade for being the main gateway to the illustrious Komodo Island, home to the world’s largest lizards.

Besides its population of over 2,500 Komodo dragons, Flores is home to some of the most spectacular landscapes in Indonesia. However, what I love most about Flores is not just the epic sights but its authenticity. The island was my first exposure to the non-hyper-touristy side of Indonesia, often travelling around it with a big smile on my face!

If you travel for the experience and want to go beyond the obvious vacation spot, then Flores is the perfect choice.

While some will visit only for a quick tour of Komodo, here I’ll tell you how you can actually travel through Flores.

Ready to plan your trip? Then let’s get started!

What to Expect

Simply put, Flores is a world away from the tourism hotspot of Bali. Despite having several epic attractions, it’s much more low-key overall and its tourist infrastructure is far less developed.

You’ll immediately notice how sparsely populated Flores is compared to Java or Bali, having only one main road running through it.

As you pass through small villages in the countryside, you’re often greeted with friendly curiosity and choruses of ‘Hello mister!’. (To the amusement of two girls I was traveling with, the children will call you mister regardless of gender due to learning just a few phrases in school.)

Three male children in Flores, Indonesia.
Random kids wanting to take photos

Much of the accommodation in Flores is guesthouse or homestay-style, and the dining scene is all about the warungs (traditional small family-owned restaurants). If you’re a backpacker then you’ll surely feel right at home.

One place that is a bit different is the main tourist town of Labuan Bajo. It has developed hugely since the opening of a domestic airport, which was upgraded to an international airport in 2022.

You’ll find plenty of hotels in Labuan Bajoseveral hostels, and even a couple of upmarket resorts (though absolutely nowhere near the level of what you’d see in places like Canggu or Seminyak). Various restaurants also serve international cuisines like sushi or Italian, should you tire of all the nasi goreng or mie ayam.

Consider Labuan your easy tourist-friendly jumping-off point. Other stops in Flores may be less centered around tourism and invite more independent exploration.

Rice fields in Flores, Indonesia with mountains behind it.

The island is unique in that the majority of the population is Roman Catholic Christians, whereas most Indonesian islands have a Muslim majority. This is evident wherever you travel, as you’ll see cute churches popping up above the verdant jungle. In Ruteng, I even slept in a guesthouse inside a convent, where I woke up to the morning singing of the nuns.

Finally, one of the main draws about Flores for me is the beautiful landscapes, from gentle rice fields to lush green rolling hills and epic multi-colored crater lakes that surely deserve a place at the front of a National Geographic Magazine. Traveling through Flores will feel like a proper adventure!

Getting In

By Sailing Adventure

If you have a couple of extra days, the best way to arrive in Flores is truly via a 4D3N sailing tour starting in Lombok near Bali.

This is what I did myself and it’s still one of my favorite ever travel memories! It’s not just a way to transit to Flores, but a unique experience in itself.

Boats on water and in front of an island in Flores, Indonesia.

You’ll get stunning views of the island of Nusa Tenggara, get to stop at remote and untouched beaches for swimming and snorkeling, and you’ll get to do all the Komodo Island sightseeing on your final day (also including Rinca Island and Padar Island, which I’ll talk about later).

I’ll never forget seeing an orange-glowing moonrise on the horizon, singing songs on deck under the starry night sky, or jumping in the waters in the morning to look at all the incredible sea life below — including enormous manta rays and several sea turtles. While I was not so lucky, some times of the year you can even see friendly whale sharks.

I should mention here that it is definitely a backpacker-style trip. Don’t expect this to be a ‘cruise’ in terms of comfort level — it’s a boat trip with few luxuries, especially if you go with a deck-class ticket. Seasickness can be an issue if you’re unlucky to face rough seas. However, it’s all worth it as it’s an incredible experience that I can highly recommend.

If you want a bit more comfort or privacy, you could opt for the private cabin, though book early in this case as the boats have only a few.

Companies that offer this trip include Wanua Adventures and Sailing Komodo. However, if you more need flexibility, you can book this trip easily on GetYourGuide. You’ll get free cancellation up to 24 hours before the trip and you can reserve now and pay later, so I recommend this platform if your plans are still in flux.

By Air

If you’d prefer to fly to Flores, there are a number of airlines operating domestic routes from Denpasar in Bali and Jakarta daily.

You can fly directly to Labuan Bajo with airlines like Air Asia, Batik Air, and Thai Lion Air. The journey only takes an hour, and return tickets usually cost around 100 USD without baggage add-ons.

By Public Boat & Bus

If you’re an adventurous soul, you could travel via Nusa Tenggara. I haven’t done this, but I met two travelers who did — and they told me they spent about 30 hours in transit! I later heard of others who took two whole days.

Since there aren’t direct connections you will have to take multiple buses to cross Nusa Tenggara and then take a public boat to Flores. If you’re up for braving the treacherous voyage, then you can find more details here.

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